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Travel and Fuji X Photography by Sigurd N. Kristiansen

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Vietnam part II - Hue to Hanoi by motorbike

It's been almost a year since I wrote the last post. Image-heavy blogging from my first generation iPad Air was a bit too slow and cumbersome to keep up, especially with what turned out to be very long days on a motorbike as I ended up taking the very, very scenic route to Hanoi from Hue. 

I will post about each leg of the ten-day journey here, as well as my days in Hanoi and my visit to tourist magnet Ha Long Bay.

In Hue I asked in my very simple but nice guesthouse Sunny Fine if they could recommend a driver to take me around to the different crypts in the area. The manager asked if I wanted someone who just could drive or someone who spoke English and could tell me a bit about the history, for a slightly higher but very reasonable price. The morning after I was picked up by motorcycle driver and cultural history graduate Thuận Nguyễn.

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Hiring Thuận was a much better choice than I expected. He was funny and easy to get along with, very knowledgeable and a safe driver. In between the crypts and sights we stopped by his parents house as we were nearby, his mother made us a great lunch.  

He told me he had made a trip to northern Vietnam along the Ho Chi Minh trail to Sapa and the more remote areas close to China the year before with a friend, and that he wanted to do trips like that with tourists. My original plan was to continue from Hue to Hanoi by bus and then go to Sapa and Ninh Bình and maybe Halong Bay, but after a day with on the bike with Thuận we agreed to drive through the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) and stop over in Khe Sanh, then continue north through the mountains along the border with Laos to Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park and the caves there as a trial run.

If it felt safe and comfortable being two on the bike 8 to 10 hours a day we would continue to Hanoi, the very long and scenic route.

If you find yourself in Hue, I highly recommend seeing the area on motorbike with Thuận Nguyễn - Hue Touring

Thuan and his family. 

Thuan and his family. 

The great lunch Thuans mother made us. 

The great lunch Thuans mother made us. 

Bunker Hill (Vong Canh Hill) with old bunkers overlooking panorama vistas of the Perfume river.

Bunker Hill (Vong Canh Hill) with old bunkers overlooking panorama vistas of the Perfume river.

Just before Bunker Hill there is an area where they make fragrant and colorful incense. 

Just before Bunker Hill there is an area where they make fragrant and colorful incense. 

Khai Dinh Tomb

Khai Dinh Tomb

Newlyweds taking shelter from the sun on a bridge in a small village outside of Hue. 

Newlyweds taking shelter from the sun on a bridge in a small village outside of Hue. 

The Meridian Gate of the Imperial City in the Hue Citadel. 

The Meridian Gate of the Imperial City in the Hue Citadel. 

A tour guide with a portable speaker at the grounds of the Tu Duc crypt.

A tour guide with a portable speaker at the grounds of the Tu Duc crypt.

Putting on a show for the tourists. 

Putting on a show for the tourists. 

Sunset over the Perfume River. 

Sunset over the Perfume River. 

tags: Vietnam, Hue, Fuji X-Pro2, temples, Temple, Travel
categories: news
Thursday 07.20.17
Posted by Sigurd Kristiansen
 

Hue

The train ride from Danang is scenic, I wasn't alone trying to get some shots of the landscape.

I took the train from Danang to Hue, which was cheap and comfortable with a very beautiful route along the coast, but I think I would have preferred going by motorbike over the famous Hai Van Pass. Both for the view and to have the opportunity to stop for photos.

Central Hue and the Perfume River.

The former imperial seat and national capital from 1802 until 1945 when the emperor abdicated and the capital was moved to Hanoi, Hue is dominated by the enormous Citadel and Imperial City, full of palaces and shrines. The Perfume River and its riverside pedestrian walkway near the Imperial City is very popular with both tourists and locals, and the myriad of dragon-adorned tourist boats are testament to this.

All the women working on the boats wear traditional Vietnamese dresses.

Closing time.

Shopping for gold fish in central Hue.

Making souvenirs by the Imperial Palace.

Sugar cane juice is very popular in Vietnam, and is made entirely from sugar canes.

Fishing in the moats of the Imperial City.

Breakfast in the many food markets is great, everything is prepared while you wait.

Breakfast ingredients, you can buy the ingredients you want in the market and have someone there prepare you a meal from them while you wait.

Fried egg with small fish and lemongrass, served with fish sauce with lime and chili. The cuisine of Hue is characterised by its spiciness, and also the prominence of all-vegetarian restaurants as it is normal to eat vegetarian a couple of days a month.

The markets are where most people get their clothes and food, rather than in shops.

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tags: Hue, Vietnam, Fuji X-Pro2, Travel
categories: news
Saturday 08.13.16
Posted by Sigurd Kristiansen
 

Danang

Korean night on the rooftop - hostess Hoang Hai at Skybar 36, wearing traditional Korean clothes.

Danang took over as the most important trading port in central Vietnam after Hoi An when it became the only trading port  Europeans were allowed to use. It is now the fifth largest city in Vietnam, growing and changing quickly, and has one of the highest GDP per capita. Americans started deploying troops at the airfield here in 1962, and used it as a major base throughout the war.

The city centre is quite spread out, divided between the beachside area and the business centre, and it can be a bit tricky to find out where to go at first. The region is famous for its cuisine, and Danang has many great restaurants and the famous China Beach starting in the middle of the city, but many tourists only land here to go directly to Hoi An.

Central Danang - southwards toward Hoi An.

Danang really comes to life at night, with an impressive amount of often animated neon lighting.

Tourist sightseeing boats at the docks.

Goats at a parking lot.

Indoor skating at the Vincom Mall.

Featured
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Aug 1, 2017
Day 2: Khe Sanh to Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park
Aug 1, 2017
Aug 1, 2017
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Jul 30, 2017
Day 1: Hue to Khe Sanh through the DMZ
Jul 30, 2017
Jul 30, 2017
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Jul 20, 2017
Vietnam part II - Hue to Hanoi by motorbike
Jul 20, 2017
Jul 20, 2017
Hue
Aug 13, 2016
Hue
Aug 13, 2016
Aug 13, 2016
Danang
Aug 8, 2016
Danang
Aug 8, 2016
Aug 8, 2016
The Mountain of Water, Marble Mountains
Aug 7, 2016
The Mountain of Water, Marble Mountains
Aug 7, 2016
Aug 7, 2016
My Son
Aug 6, 2016
My Son
Aug 6, 2016
Aug 6, 2016
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Jul 23, 2016
So many places to see, so little time...
Jul 23, 2016
Jul 23, 2016
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Jul 18, 2016
Hoi An
Jul 18, 2016
Jul 18, 2016
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Jul 15, 2016
A little update
Jul 15, 2016
Jul 15, 2016
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Jul 12, 2016
Cho Lon residential buildings
Jul 12, 2016
Jul 12, 2016
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Jul 10, 2016
Cholon motor parts district
Jul 10, 2016
Jul 10, 2016
Cholon backstreets and alleyways
Jul 6, 2016
Cholon backstreets and alleyways
Jul 6, 2016
Jul 6, 2016
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Jul 6, 2016
District 1
Jul 6, 2016
Jul 6, 2016
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Jul 6, 2016
Cholon and the Binh Tay market
Jul 6, 2016
Jul 6, 2016
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Jul 4, 2016
Arrival
Jul 4, 2016
Jul 4, 2016
Vietnam
Jun 27, 2016
Vietnam
Jun 27, 2016
Jun 27, 2016
tags: Vietnam, Fuji X-Pro2, Travel, Da Nang
categories: news
Monday 08.08.16
Posted by Sigurd Kristiansen
 

The Mountain of Water, Marble Mountains

The Marble Mountains area near Danang is famous for stone sculpture and stone cutting crafts, there is a myriad of workshops and shops along the roads.

Marble Mountains consists of five mountains named to represent the five elements - Metal, Water, Wood, Fire and Earth. There are several Buddhist sanctuaries on and inside these mountains. Until recently stone from the mountains were used in the plentiful stone workshops of the area, realising they would end up without any mountains to attract tourists and pilgrims if they continued, the government put a stop to the use of stone from the area.

The Mountain of Water is the largest and most famous of the mountains, and is very popular with tourists. There is even an elevator to avoid a few of the first steps, though from the top of the elevator the rest of the mountain is hardly wheelchair-accessible. 

Danang and what the US soldiers called China Beach - the 30 km beach stretching from Danang to Hoi An - can be seen from the mountain. The Vietcong had a base and field hospital in the caves in these mountains, with great views of the Americans and their R&R activities.

Taking a nap in one of the first temples one reaches.

Taking a nap in one of the first temples one reaches.

Some altars have been modernised with glowing lights.

Lighting the shrines in the largest cave, Am Phu.

Selling and helping place incense.

Some daylight coming in through the ceiling of the Am Phu cave.

Some daylight coming in through the ceiling of the Am Phu cave.

Donations.

Inscriptions by the entrance to a cave temple.

Detail from a shrine in one of the grottoes.

tags: Vietnam, Danang, Travel, Fuji X-Pro2, Marble mountains, temples
categories: news
Sunday 08.07.16
Posted by Sigurd Kristiansen
 

My Son

The Cham ruins of My Son at sunrise, the temples were constructed between the 4th and the 14th century by the Champa kings.

The temples of My Son lie an hour and half by car west of Hoi An. They are historically very significant as they were the religious and political capital of the Cham Kingdom. Although dwarfed if compared to Angkor Wat, they are definitely worth a visit, the on-site museum gives some context and explanation of Hindu symbolism. Arrive early to avoid crowds, exploring the lush grounds by yourself as the sun rises is a nice and peaceful experience.

The Hindu temples of the Cham Kingdom were dedicated to the worship of Shiva.

There is a little museum inside one of the buildings of the main temple with salvaged items. 

A lot of the temples in the area were badly damaged by a week of carpet bombing by the Americans during the war. Some are being reconstructed.

Demon face on an outside wall.

The main tower.

tags: Vietnam, Travel, My Son, Temple, Ruins, Fuji X-Pro2
categories: news
Saturday 08.06.16
Posted by Sigurd Kristiansen
 

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